﻿<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Auto Restorer Community / Auto Restorer Forums / Projects </title><generator>InstantForum.NET v4.1.2</generator><description>Auto Restorer Community</description><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/</link><webMaster>forums@bowtieinc.com</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 05:56:26 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><item><title>73 Mustang remaining parts</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic558-5-1.aspx</link><description> Hey everybody, I have 1973 Mustang conv. parts. I will give these parts away to a fellow restorer who needs them for his Mustang project. These parts include conv. top frame, entire wiring harness, dash frame, steering column non tilt, and other small interior parts. I live in South Jersey. If anyones interested reply back here I'll get back to you. Thanks&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/Smile.gif" border="0" title="Smile"&gt;</description><pubDate>Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:55:06 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Mark57</dc:creator></item><item><title>Old Firebird</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic553-5-1.aspx</link><description>Is anyone working on a first gen Firebird or have work on one?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'd like to get you oppinion on transmissions.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;-Eric&lt;br&gt;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.sandblasterinfo.com/" target="_blank" class="SmlLinks"&gt;Sandblaster information&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;</description><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:26:09 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>birdrestorer</dc:creator></item><item><title>79 Dodge Lil-Red-Express, Bed Wood</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic538-5-1.aspx</link><description>I am at a loss as to the correct procedure to install the wood inside the bed of a 1979 Dodge Step-Side. It is not like Ford or Chevrolet. There are three cross braces that attach to the frame, and the wood. The wood is all that appears to attach the bed sides. I have the manuals and parts books, but no help. I purchased the wood from MAR-K. They do not know the procedure either. Someone must know the correct procedure.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;______________________________________________________&lt;BR&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.uggisboot.com.au" target="_blank" class="SmlLinks"&gt;Ugg boots&lt;/a&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.uggisboot.com.au" target="_blank" class="SmlLinks"&gt;Uggs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;BR&gt;</description><pubDate>Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:24:07 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>EricSolomon</dc:creator></item><item><title>sealer between metal finders</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic542-5-1.aspx</link><description>i have a 1956 ford pick -up truck that i am rebuilding from the ground up. in assembling the inter finder to the outer finder the 1956 ford shop manual usese a sealer m-5335-b between the parts,also it is used for mounting the rear finders also.what should i use???chuck</description><pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 23:20:16 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>EricSolomon</dc:creator></item><item><title>Restoring an '85 Porsche 944</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic505-5-1.aspx</link><description>Hello everybody. I subscribed to the magazine because I finally decided to throw some love and care at my 25 year old Porsche which is a daily driver. It's a normally aspirated late 85 which has a full aluminum suspension rather than stamped steel. I have kept her going for years but have never seriously worked at restoring the car to great condition until now. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'm a master auto technician and have been for about 19 years now so I have some insight into the workings of a car that many amateur enthusiasts never get a chance to have, so if anyone has any technical questions that they can't figure out on their own feel free to contact me.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The car is in good basic shape, has some rust etc, and oil leaks.. had some water leaks in the car which I have addressed including a rear hatch glass which had partially separated from the frame and tubing which runs through the inside of the car which had been disconnected. I have some rust damage on the drivers floor as well. I recently recovered the seats myself and did some foam repair, and I have managed to piece together almost an entire new interior from parts bought on ebay. I bought a mig welder specifically for this project as well. I will keep posting on the progress and take some pictures. The last thing I did to the car (yesterday) was replace the steering shaft (universal joint went bad) and the 1/4 exhaust manifold which cracked. Last week rebuilt the front end again, these have weak ball joints which have to be rebuilt in the arm so I have a set around which I rebuild once a year usually. New struts and shocks all around etc.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Till next time-</description><pubDate>Thu, 14 Jan 2010 18:36:05 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>944 Dave</dc:creator></item><item><title>53 CHEVY 350 ENGINE SWAP help??</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic443-5-1.aspx</link><description>Hello All,&lt;P&gt;I would grateful for any help, hints, PICTURES, to assist me in swapping a 350 Chevy/350 turbo trans combo, into my 53 Chevy. (It has a 216 straight 6 now). Any snags I might run into??&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I'd like to hire help in the Blairsville, GA area, if you have experience in fabrication for this project.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I also have a 57 GMC Dump Truck with a 12' bed for sale or trade, to help with funding the project.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks!&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;A href="mailto:Roy.........ROYSRATRODS@AOL.COM"&gt;Roy.........ROYSRATRODS@AOL.COM&lt;/A&gt;</description><pubDate>Wed, 19 Aug 2009 13:56:33 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>ROYSRATRODS</dc:creator></item><item><title>41 plymouth truck parts needed</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic311-5-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;FONT face=System&gt;I have a 41 plymouth truck, and am having no luck finding parts,&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;FONT face=System&gt;Can anyone help me find parts for my truck        THANKS&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/Smile.gif" border="0" title="Smile"&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Jul 2008 20:58:34 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>modelmkr 66</dc:creator></item><item><title>75 Toyota Landcruiser</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic521-5-1.aspx</link><description>Hello everyone, I have just been given a 75 Toyota Landcruiser that hasn't run in at least 20 years. I'm not certain if there was any major malfunction 20 years ago, I believe it was just parked and never touched since then. Anyways, I was hoping yall had some advice on where to begin on this journey. I've done some minor work on cars, but never anything like this. Any help is much appreciated.&lt;br&gt;thanks</description><pubDate>Tue, 02 Feb 2010 21:52:29 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>nb1101</dc:creator></item><item><title>27 chevy</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic516-5-1.aspx</link><description>HELLO ALL;I HAVE A QUESTION THAT I HOPE SOMEONE WILL BE ABLE TO ANSWER FOR ME.I HAVE A '27 CHEVY PICK UP THAT I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO REPLACE THE MECHANICAL FRONT BRAKES WITH JUICE BRAKES.IT HAS SIX LUG HUBS NOW BUT,I WOULD LIKE TO GO FIVE LUG.DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERE IS ANY OTHER YEARS THAT THE HUBS WILL FIT ON MY ORIGINAL SPINDLES?THANK YOU FOR ANY ANSWERS IN ADVANCE</description><pubDate>Sat, 30 Jan 2010 01:31:58 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>stanimal</dc:creator></item><item><title>About to buy a 80' Camaro</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic500-5-1.aspx</link><description>The exterior on it is great. The guy has the seats sitting out in the garage but the exterior is in really great condition. Rebuilt engine with low mileage. However the only thing in the interior is the dash. Wondering if anyone could give me a somewhat general cost to put in door panels and floors..basically total Restore of interior because frankly there is no interior. I want it to be restored to stock as best as possible. Anything would be helpful guys. Thanks.</description><pubDate>Fri, 08 Jan 2010 09:43:57 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Brand83187</dc:creator></item><item><title>1986 cavalier convertible weatherstripping</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic458-5-1.aspx</link><description>does anyone know of a company or persons who may or still sales weather stripping for the 1985/86 cavalier convertible? ok stop laughing, i need trunk rubber,door rubber and door belt trim etc, and no JC whitney does not have it, if you know of someone can you please let me know. I know you guys are still laughing but hay it's a convertible&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/BigGrin.gif" border="0" title="BigGrin"&gt;&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/Tongue.gif" border="0" title="Tongue"&gt;&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/BigGrin.gif" border="0" title="BigGrin"&gt;&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/Tongue.gif" border="0" title="Tongue"&gt;</description><pubDate>Sat, 26 Sep 2009 13:39:26 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>dieman5</dc:creator></item><item><title>need help</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic454-5-1.aspx</link><description>im looking at getting a 1970 mercury cyclone gt to restore. im nt sure if it runs or nt. its has a good bit of rust and needs interior work. i need help on how much to pay for it.</description><pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:23:51 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>fordman63</dc:creator></item><item><title>1979 Lil Red Express Restoring</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic460-5-1.aspx</link><description>Newbie, this I am. I'm asking for info on what type of wood and how to install it on the above named truck. Can anyone help with these questions. &lt;br&gt;Many thanks in advance, Dan&lt;br&gt;Email address: danma3116@gmail.com</description><pubDate>Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:51:17 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>danstar</dc:creator></item><item><title>need help</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic256-5-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 1985 Cutlass Salon. It is to my understanding that all 1985 cutlass, monte carlos, Regals, and grand Prixs did not come with the option of a maunual transmission. I have taken a Chevrolet 327 and mated it with a 5- speed out of a 1987        I-rocZ and eventually a richmond 5-speed but my concern is installing a clutch pedal i have room but would apreciate some help on how to hang the clutch and brake assembly</description><pubDate>Tue, 07 Aug 2007 19:42:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>young restorer</dc:creator></item><item><title>67 Camaro rs Headlight Door Actuator</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic436-5-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=9 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR id=_ctl1__ctl0_ctlPrivateMessage__ctl0_ctlPanelBar_ctlPrivateMessageRepeater__ctl1_trRow2&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width=200 nowarp=""&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width="80%"&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=9 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR id=_ctl1__ctl0_ctlPrivateMessage__ctl0_ctlPanelBar_ctlPrivateMessageRepeater__ctl1_trRow2&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width=200 nowarp=""&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width="80%"&gt;&lt;TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD class=smalltxt vAlign=top&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=9 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR id=_ctl1__ctl0_ctlPrivateMessage__ctl0_ctlPanelBar_ctlPrivateMessageRepeater__ctl1_trRow2&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width=200 nowarp=""&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width="80%"&gt;&lt;TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD class=smalltxt vAlign=top&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=9 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR id=_ctl1__ctl0_ctlPrivateMessage__ctl0_ctlPanelBar_ctlPrivateMessageRepeater__ctl1_trRow2&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width=200 nowarp=""&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width="80%"&gt;&lt;TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD class=smalltxt vAlign=top&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=9 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR id=_ctl1__ctl0_ctlPrivateMessage__ctl0_ctlPanelBar_ctlPrivateMessageRepeater__ctl1_trRow2&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width=200 nowarp=""&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;TD class=ForumsBody1 vAlign=top width="80%"&gt;&lt;TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"&gt;&lt;TBODY&gt;&lt;TR&gt;&lt;TD class=smalltxt vAlign=top&gt;I have a 67 Camaro rs I purchased 6 years ago. The drivers side headlight cover which is electric would not open. I replaced the motor still would not work. I replaced the relays, still did not work. I finally replaced the wiring harness under the hood and it worked. Now in the past couple of years it has been weak, not opening and closing as fast as the passenger side, recently it stop working. Has anyone had this problem or was it a problem in 67? Can you help me? I don't want to go through all the things I have done in the past. &lt;P&gt;Thanks&lt;/P&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;&lt;/TD&gt;&lt;/TR&gt;&lt;/TBODY&gt;&lt;/TABLE&gt;</description><pubDate>Wed, 29 Jul 2009 13:13:18 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>WCIJR468</dc:creator></item><item><title>1974 Mustang Restoration</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic418-5-1.aspx</link><description>Hi guys, I am new to the forum and was just looking around for places for help and Ideas!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;My father and I have started to restore a 1974 Mustang Mach 1 Fastback. The body work is clean and right now it's painted with Grey primer until we can get it off to paint.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We have changed out the carpet, headliner, dash, trim, steering wheel, and a few other minor things here and there. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Currently we are trying to find a Transmission for the car. The stock 2.4l V6 had blown a week after we had purchased the car. Most likely do to it's older age and poor care taking from the previous owner.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Now we are dropping in a 289 V8 that we got from a friend. Yet have been having much trouble finding a transmission.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We are located in Pinetop, AZ. At the moment we don't have a bunch of money to blow on a tranny or else we would have purchased a rebuilt unit. For now our price range is $100-$300. Not an exact estimate, but it isn't a lot to work with. If anyone could help point us in a good direction it would be extremely appreciated.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We have already went through junk yards and the local craigs list.</description><pubDate>Fri, 05 Jun 2009 03:09:38 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Jt_evolved</dc:creator></item><item><title>50 plymouth choke</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic408-5-1.aspx</link><description>I own a 1950 Plymouth P-19 that is mostly original. One of the exceptions is a aftermarket choke. The replacement pat runs about 480.00. Now I am not a rich man so I wanted to know if a later choke from a 60's slant six will work. The pocket in the manifold of my flathead looks very close to that of later engines. Anyone have any ideas?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description><pubDate>Sun, 03 May 2009 12:57:52 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>BigD</dc:creator></item><item><title>Help with startup</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic403-5-1.aspx</link><description>OK guys, I'm running out of ideas.  I'm trying initial startup on a new professionally built motor.  Here's what I have.  Ford 460 with 10.5:1 conmpression, Ford block, Edelbrock Rpm Heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Holley 750 vacuum operated carb, 1" spacer, Holley 110 gph mechanical fuel pump, regulator set a 6.5 psi.  MSD stand alone distributor.  I've got good spark, timing is OK, but will need to be tweaked once I get it running.  Engine will run if I pour gas into the carb, but dies once gas runs out.  I've used two carbs.  Started with a 750 edelbrock.  Rebuilt it, and reset the floats.  now using a brand new 750 Holley.  Floats were fine from the factory, but adjusted up and down anyway without improvement.  Spark is good.  I have juice at the coil with the ignition in the on position.  Any other ideas?</description><pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 17:52:30 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>hp246</dc:creator></item><item><title>1970 mercury cyclone gt parts</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic170-5-1.aspx</link><description>I am restoring a 1970 mercury cyclone gt and am in need of parts.  Needing front grill and hidden head light covers, inside dash for instrument panel. The car is looking great, have painted it and have gone thru and done brakes, undercoating, shocks and tires.  It runs great.  This was my first car.  I was able to find it and buy it back.  Anyone that has these parts please email me.  Thanks.</description><pubDate>Thu, 24 Nov 2005 05:59:08 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>geno</dc:creator></item><item><title>storing a 67 chevelle dash pad</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic395-5-1.aspx</link><description>Ive just started a complete resto on a 67 ss chevelle . I removed the dash today and the dash pad is in very good cond. I would like to keep it and reuse it but I am not sure what to clean it with , or possibly soften the vinyl with so it doesent crack when I replace it. It will be stored for some time because I have two young boys and  the car is not high on the to do list.Please let me know if theres a product I can use to revive and store it that wont harm or dry it out. thanks</description><pubDate>Sun, 05 Apr 2009 11:15:19 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>tinrkr4</dc:creator></item><item><title>Needing Frame for 1968-1972 Chevelle</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic386-5-1.aspx</link><description>Hi,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I am looking for a car frame for 1968-1972 Chevelle in the WV, OH and PA area. I was wondering if anyone knew of places I could look for one or if they are wanting to sell one. Thanks for the help!</description><pubDate>Sun, 22 Mar 2009 18:00:16 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>spike</dc:creator></item><item><title>New To List / 67 Mustang Project</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic220-5-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;p align="center"&gt;&lt;b&gt;1967 Mustang&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;  I am a member of the Jag-Lovers.org, and one of the guys there referred me and encouraged me to join this group.  &lt;div class="Quote"&gt;&lt;font color = "#1F5080"&gt;I have recently been offered to buy back my `67 Mustang, that I sold to a kid that worked for me back in 1988.  A young man of honor, he finally was able to hunt me down after all these years and told me over dinner that he had promised me that I would have first dibs on my car if he ever decided to sell it. &lt;/font&gt;&lt;/div&gt; After 18 years, he has decided to sell and I get it back - hopefully very soon.  He has made some changes that I don't agree with, but for the most part, he has taken very good care of my car all these years.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;I am not looking to restore this to some Concourse level, but want to use it as a daily driver.&lt;/b&gt;  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;My friend at J-L stated that there was some great articles and advice here on what sensible and appropriate mods can be made with a daily driver reliability project in mind.  He specifically mentioned an article on a `&lt;b&gt;&lt;u&gt;68 California Special by Larry Lyles&lt;/u&gt;&lt;/b&gt;? &lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Anyone know of these references?&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description><pubDate>Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:23:07 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>PhoenixSmitty</dc:creator></item><item><title>1970 MERCURY CYCLONE GT</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic365-5-1.aspx</link><description>Ive decided to sell me 1970 MERCURY CYCLONE GT. 100% rust free!!! Original 351c in it.. interior 98% perfect... orange with black interior $9500 email nathan@globestepper . com if interested...</description><pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 16:54:37 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>nrounder13</dc:creator></item><item><title>71 Lemans motor swap</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic358-5-1.aspx</link><description>I know you guys are going to beat me up for this, but PLEASE go easy on me. Im the new owner of this 71' Lemans Sport Conv. It came with a (locked up) 350 and I have a 800 hp 454 that i want to put in it. We've taken the 350 out and just eyeballing it, Im not sure if the 454 w/headers is gonna fit due to the sterring rod being so close. Is there anyone that has done this swap or that knows if it will fit? If, so what (if any) mods do i have to make? Thanks guys!!! Sincerely, "Desperate 4 Help"</description><pubDate>Sun, 04 Jan 2009 11:00:57 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>desperate4help</dc:creator></item><item><title>1997 Buick engine swap</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic357-5-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;DIV&gt;Hi, just wanted to know if any of your readers have done an engine swap on a 1997 Buick LaSabre. I am looking to possibly having a crate engine and new/rebuilt trans installed. I was wondering if there was any combination that would create a fast street machine for an old guy that wants a "fooler". The body is in great shape, but the original engine has about 138,000 miles on it and is starting to have some intake gasket problems. I also don't know how long the trans will hold out. It would probably cost me about $2500 in repairs, so just thought I could do something a little different with the car.I do remember that Popular Mechanics installed a Corvette engine in a Buick wagon, but it was a rear wheel drive.I realize that this is a "new" car compared to the older models you write about, but am a subsciber to your magazine and you have some great advice from your readers. Since I can't afford a 32 street rod, this would be my next choice. I live in the western Chicago suburbs so if anyone knows of a shop that does quality work, I would appreciate hearing about it. Thanks, Don Worcester, Elmhurst, IL. 60126  Phone # 630-567-3038.&lt;/DIV&gt;</description><pubDate>Fri, 02 Jan 2009 13:32:27 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>cranker57</dc:creator></item><item><title>Media Blast or Chemical Dip?</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic168-5-1.aspx</link><description>Help! I feel there is peace-of-mind with chemical dipping a car to completely remove all filler and rust, but I don't know the expense of the procedure or if media-blasting will suffice.  Any advice/experience will be appreciated.  Thanks.</description><pubDate>Mon, 11 Jul 2005 20:28:35 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>LedSled2u</dc:creator></item><item><title>Spoked Wheels</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic158-5-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 1959 Thunderbird that my father and I originally restored 10 years ago and was a daily driver for 7 years.  I'm in the Air Force, and over the last 2 years I have been unable to have the car with me due to various circumstances.  I have the car again and am trying to do a "mini" restoration over the most worn parts of the car.  These include some rusted body panels (Colorado winters can be hard on these old cars), and a ten year old paint job.  &lt;br&gt;    Where I am really stuck is a set of roadster rims that I put on the car about 5 years ago.  The rims are dirty and 1 rim has at least 2 spokes broken on it.  Is there an easier way of gettin between the spokes to polish them?  How do I go about fixing the broken spokes?  I'm in the Shreveport area, is there anyone around that can do this?  Also, some spokes seem to be loose, showing about 1/4 inch of stem into the wheel hub when I pull off the spinner.  Is this something I can do at home with some more knowledge or do I need to take these wheels to a professional?  Thanks for any help!</description><pubDate>Sat, 30 Oct 2004 16:02:09 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>c4clewis</dc:creator></item><item><title>1965 AMF Ford Mustang Pedal Car</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic325-5-1.aspx</link><description>I've obtained a 1965 AMF Ford Mustang Pedal Car (an original) to restore for my first Grandson. Would like to get more history on the car and where to get some needed parts for restoration.</description><pubDate>Sat, 04 Oct 2008 08:23:39 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>4D MAN</dc:creator></item><item><title>Seat Belts</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic159-5-1.aspx</link><description>I have a seat belt on my motorhome that will not let me pull it out to latch it for travel. It catches when pulled out about 15". I have taken it out of the boot and can push a bar and it will release. but this is not proper.</description><pubDate>Thu, 11 Nov 2004 17:48:43 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>quickandeasy</dc:creator></item><item><title>Problem Installing Rear sub frame Brackets.</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic304-5-1.aspx</link><description>I live in Northeast Ohio where rust is a problem. I am in the process of working on my '93 Ford Thunderbird (my daily driver). I am trying to replace my Rear sub-frame brackets. I have already bought new ones, but I am afraid that when I unbolt the old ones (whats left of them), the body will flex and move out of alignment and the bolt holes wont line up! Any advice that you can give me would be helpful and appreciated.</description><pubDate>Thu, 26 Jun 2008 20:05:57 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Knightriding</dc:creator></item><item><title>1984 s-15 Jimmy</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic299-5-1.aspx</link><description>I'm working on restoring my Jimmy, and on the interior of the rear gate it has a plastic panel with a piece of carpet glued to it.  The carpet is very worn, and I'd like to replace it, but it is glued on REALLY well with something resembling contact cement.  Does anybody have any ideas how to get the carpet off (preferably in one piece so I can use it as a template)?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Also, after I get the new piece cut and ready to install does anyone have suggestions on what to use to adhere it, as well as any tips on this sort of thing?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks for any help.</description><pubDate>Sun, 01 Jun 2008 22:15:06 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>ridiculous_fools</dc:creator></item><item><title>ENGINE/OIL OR GAS ADDITIVE</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic276-5-1.aspx</link><description>Hi Guys (Newbie here)&lt;P&gt;I happened to be watching SPEED on cable. One of my favorites about cars/restorations &amp;amp; new products.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;They devoted almost an entire program on this product that's be around since the 50's believe it on not.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;It's called Z/MAX the product is added to you engine oil. Their are other additives but I talk about the engine additive.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The stuff looks to good to be true. They too a square piece of metal, about an inch thick and heated it up to engien heat I think is was about 190 degrees ( i may be wrong ) on the heat temp. &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;But nevertheless, in the middle of this 1in. plate of steel they drilled a half-round hole halfway into the plate. The poured a droplet of this Z/MAX into the hole.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Low and behold within a few minutes the Z/MAX penertated into the hole and throughout the steel. Spreading to the ends the square piece of steel.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Then their droped a few droplets of Z/MAX onto some engine grease. And BANG! the Z/MAX started breaking-up the grease.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;They claimed that Z/MAX will prevent any carbon on the engine parts and prolong engine life along with better cooled engine parts. Less wear and tear, including better excellaration.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;QUESTION(S) PLEASE:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;1. Have any you guys out there ever seen this commerical?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;2. Have any you guys uses this Z/MAX ? If so please give me your expericence with it.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;THANK YOU ALL GUYS&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;GOD BLESS&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Schooner :cool:</description><pubDate>Thu, 13 Dec 2007 18:08:05 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>SCHOONER</dc:creator></item><item><title>clutch</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic266-5-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 1987 camaro clucth slave and  master cylinder and need a clutch line. It has a specific fitting that involves an o-ring and i would appreciate if anyone one knows where i can buy one or make something to work with it.</description><pubDate>Thu, 18 Oct 2007 17:48:33 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>young restorer</dc:creator></item><item><title>69 Camaro Restoration</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic232-5-1.aspx</link><description>I am new to the forum and this is my first post.  My son and I are getting ready to tackle our first serious restoration project of his 69 Camaro.  We will be in uncharted territory when we install new floor pans and quarter panels. The first thing is the new floor pans.  It seems to me there was an article in Auto Restorer a while back about new floor pans in uni-body vehicles but I couldn’t find it in my library.  Was there an article?  If not, it seems like there are multiple ways to do it.  What is the best way for an amateur?  I was thinking about dropping the new floor pans in on top of the old ones and drawing a cutting line around it.  I would then cut out the old pan and butt weld the new one using spot welds all the way around to avoid warping the new pans.  Is this the best way to do it?  Is there an article or publication that could help us?</description><pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 06:37:31 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>tjos</dc:creator></item><item><title>engine stand</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic172-5-1.aspx</link><description>I am a new subscriber and I just read an article in the newest issue about a person who built an engine stand out of 2x4s and said he got the idea from auto restorer.  Which issue was it in?  I would like a copy of the article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;jeff</description><pubDate>Tue, 28 Feb 2006 06:24:27 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>jeffsang</dc:creator></item><item><title>85 Sedan Deville Engine - HELP</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic226-5-1.aspx</link><description>I have an 85 SDV, 4 liter, which I believe is the 1st year to use aluminum blocks.  I am looking for advice related to whether the frame can support a cast-iron engine, and are they available for this year.  If not, what is the best route to go for replacing with an new aluminum block.  Present engine has 150,000 miles and leaks about 1 quart of oil per 2000 miles.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;thanks&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;John</description><pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 16:22:19 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>muggs</dc:creator></item><item><title>Brakes</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic203-5-1.aspx</link><description>Could anyone advise me what would be required to change a single chamber master cylinder to a two chamber master cylinder for a 1965 pontiac le mans? I am considering this for safety reasons. Thanks.</description><pubDate>Sat, 22 Jul 2006 13:34:03 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>sscott65s</dc:creator></item><item><title>Asianwhiteskin Trading supplies all kind of whiten</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic173-5-1.aspx</link><description>Asianwhiteskin Trading supplies all kind of whitening pills and diet products. &lt;br&gt;The most saleable whitening pills is the Speedwhite with rosehips (both have BFAD LICENSE) Also won as the No. 1 Whitening Pills  -    and Best whitening pills in NATIONAL PRODUCT QUALITY AWARD AND PHILIPPINE PRODUCT EXCELLENCE AWARD.&lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/5d84eeb4-2801-49e6-a8c3-276f.gif" border="0" title="Horse2"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Here are the Whitening Pills that Asianwhiteskin carrying[play] &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;1. Speedwhite and Rosehips &lt;br&gt;2. PH 338 &lt;br&gt;3. Tathione 307 &lt;br&gt;4. Shiseido Whisis &lt;br&gt;5. Alfe White Japan &lt;br&gt;6. G100mg &lt;br&gt;7. L- Booster&lt;br&gt;8. Kyusoku Bihaku &lt;br&gt;And more … &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We also supply in bulk order! Email sales@asianwhiteskin.com &lt;img align="absmiddle" src="http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Skins/Auto/Images/EmotIcons/1070.gif" border="0" title="Dog2"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Visit www.asianwhiteskin.com/skin.html  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;For other health and beauty products please visit www.yumeimise.com   or www.princessface.com&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Please visit www.healthyglowmag.com&lt;br&gt;</description><pubDate>Sat, 25 Mar 2006 07:00:15 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>liezel</dc:creator></item><item><title>tri five rack and pinion</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic171-5-1.aspx</link><description>Can anyone give information on how to build your own rack and pinion for a tri five chevy?  Or where to find information on how to do this?  thanks</description><pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2006 21:39:54 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>fuzz</dc:creator></item><item><title>engine oil cooling</title><link>http://board.autorestorermagazine.com/Topic160-5-1.aspx</link><description>on my 1964 gto, we are planning on installing an engine oil cooler with a remote mounted filter.  a concern is that the oil will drain back to the block causing a lapse of oil and pressure to the bearings upon startup.  one suggestion has been to install a check valve inline, is this a good idea, is there a real concern, or any other suggestions?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;alan allmeroth</description><pubDate>Sat, 26 Feb 2005 07:53:12 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>al6388</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>